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Carriage Returner

~ Slow Travel, Quick Scripts

Carriage Returner

Monthly Archives: October 2015

Historical Marker

20 Tuesday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education

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The origins of this church are very remote, so much so that St. Gregory the Elder makes it the theatre of a miraculous episode that occurred in the 6th century.

The saint narrates of an Arian bishop who, having dared to celebrate mass, was stricken by sudden blindness. From this moment the church became the object of numerous reconstructions and changes in use.

In the 10th century it became a Benedictine convent. The church was rebuilt in the style of mature Spoleto Romanesque and was consecrated in 1234 by Gregory IX, while the nuns embraced the Rule of the Clarises.

During the 16th century the clashes between the city factions led to the closing of the convent, which in the following century was ceded to the Lesser Observants.

Entrusted to this order until the 19th century, it was then turned into a refuge for beggars.

The work done in the 18th century transformed the building inside and outside: the present look is the result of the restoration done in the middle of the sixties, which restored its late Romanesque character.

The façade with two slopes and central raising divided by pilasters with Corinthian capitals and dividing cornices on small hanging arches, has an arched portal with three insets and a rose window constituted by old elements.

[The façade is now defaced with graffiti, as eventually to be shown below. Civic prose is likewise to be retraced with hyperlinks, all in good time.]

The interior, which has a nave and two side aisles and a big transcept, is divided into six parts. Worthy of note is the cycle of frescoes from the beginning of the 13th century, an important testimony to the figurative culture of southern Umbria: they were detached in 1953 and replaced after the latest restoration (2011), and depict scenes from the Old Testament.

At the Far End of a Side Street, Another Chiesa is Closed

20 Tuesday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education

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When you go looking for the loggia next door, this is what you get:

S. Paolo (from below))
S. Paolo (on level ground)


Then what looks for all the world like an opening pushes back, you get:

One Opened, One Closed
Where Two Worlds Meet

Blue Sky, and Sun

20 Tuesday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Uncategorized

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At least I think that’s what they call them in (Latin) Spoletium.

Stone Ages

19 Monday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Art

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After Three Years, Surprises Still

19 Monday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Travel

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A long time getting posted:

Exploring the new Percorso della Mobilita Alternativa
has opened up all sorts of unknown alleys & avenues.

To begin, the apparent dead end beside Reb’s art store
turns out (as all the signs promise) to go somewhere:

Directly to the backside of what we’d seen the day before
from the wall’s other side. And the cross atop the steeple

Must be connected as well, even if we never tracked it
to ground—discovering, instead, a former monastery

Which I had passed, in my haste to find some pizza,
the other day without looking over at it for a second.

Just goes to show: you only think you can’t get there
from here, when in fact the whole town is connected.

Who knows? Maybe one of these days that old Anfiteatro,
long a mystery on every map, will show up reconstructed.

(There are signs, here and there, that such an undertaking
is now in either the archaeological or tourist/logistical works.)


After Lunch, Amid the Rain

10 Saturday Oct 2015

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Despite the rain, we explore the mobilita alternative adjacent to the local place we have decided to try out for lunch. Sign says, it will take us to Torre dell’Olio (the Tower of Oil, so-called because of the use of boiling oil as a defense mechanism).

For a picture from where we were being moved right along, link here.>

Since we trudge past the tower every day (having yet to see a thing vaguely resembling an alternative means of mobility), we are more than a bit curious: where does the escalator come out? (Behind a wall, it would appear, worthy of further study when, or if, October decides to call off the rain, falling like oil.)

Print and Reprint

10 Saturday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Travel

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Updated since we were last here, the new maps show the mechanical changes to the town: another escalator to the top, for example, this one not far from our back door, which comes in handy occasionally.

Lost in the upgrade (as often happens), however, are comforting old functions (like passing shops) and useful pieces of information (like the name of the deconsecrated church that is now the Pegasus theater).

I’ll have to look back to my 2013 emails to find the name, but these snap shots (and I do mean snapped shots) give an inadequate feel for the ambience of the converted space (forget about the hidden piano).


The Real Thing

09 Friday Oct 2015

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After making up the part of Quando men vo for Rebecca, I was surprised (along with my wife) to hear the real thing sung by a promising soprano tonight in the conclusion to Concerti Pegasus 2015.

She, the real singer, has been amazing us each time with her voice, together with a flair for the dramatic (a budding prima donna, you might say, if you saw here repeat performances of “Les oiseaux dans las charmille”).

A Gelato for Our Efforts

08 Thursday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Travel

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The plan was perfect.
The execution, like clockwork.
Stop by the ATM. Check.
Cross the main avenue. Check.
Head out of town. Check.
Pass under the highway. Check.
Approach the cemetery from behind. Check.
Walk up to Chiesa San Salvatore. Cross-checked.

So, we head back to town.
Walk to the market. Closed another half-hour.
Pass the wait with a Gelato. Check.
Sit in the park, waiting for the market to open. Check.
Walk over to check the market. Check (obviously).
Strangers with keys are opening the doors. Check.
Backtrack to the park, letting them get settled. Check.
Head back to the market, just as they are locking up. Cross-checked.

True/False-Multiple Choice Exams

06 Tuesday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education

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1. T/F I was delighted to find a printed program for the Pegasus Concerti.

2. T/F I was pretty sure the Schumann variation had arrived on schedule.

After that, it was essentially multiple-guess all the way down the line. It helped, of course, that only three piano instrumentals were planned; not to mention, the limited appearance of women performers. Throw in a distinguishing rendition in German and then French to go with the Italian numbers; account for repeat performances by pianist or vocalist; and before you know it (in retrospect) the program sorts itself out (once one soprano’s non-appearance is factored in.)

Terrific performances. Gratefully received by a enthusiastic crowd. Fully expect that we will be going back to enjoy ourselves some more.

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