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Carriage Returner

~ Slow Travel, Quick Scripts

Carriage Returner

Category Archives: Travel

Print and Reprint

10 Saturday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Travel

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Updated since we were last here, the new maps show the mechanical changes to the town: another escalator to the top, for example, this one not far from our back door, which comes in handy occasionally.

Lost in the upgrade (as often happens), however, are comforting old functions (like passing shops) and useful pieces of information (like the name of the deconsecrated church that is now the Pegasus theater).

I’ll have to look back to my 2013 emails to find the name, but these snap shots (and I do mean snapped shots) give an inadequate feel for the ambience of the converted space (forget about the hidden piano).


A Gelato for Our Efforts

08 Thursday Oct 2015

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The plan was perfect.
The execution, like clockwork.
Stop by the ATM. Check.
Cross the main avenue. Check.
Head out of town. Check.
Pass under the highway. Check.
Approach the cemetery from behind. Check.
Walk up to Chiesa San Salvatore. Cross-checked.

So, we head back to town.
Walk to the market. Closed another half-hour.
Pass the wait with a Gelato. Check.
Sit in the park, waiting for the market to open. Check.
Walk over to check the market. Check (obviously).
Strangers with keys are opening the doors. Check.
Backtrack to the park, letting them get settled. Check.
Head back to the market, just as they are locking up. Cross-checked.

Our Kind of Town

06 Tuesday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education, Travel

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In our little town, half the fun of it is that you never know what’s going on. (Half of that half, it seems, can be traced to Piazza del Mercata, where the misnamed Information Center prefers to dispense maps and little else. A long story, quite needless to say or tell.)

Back to the fun of it. Last year, we ran into a music competition, totally unawares, that kept us entertained for almost a week. This year, using a printout graciously provided at the Information Center by the one kind soul we’ve met there, it looked as if we were in for a return engagement.

And so we are, just not the one we expected. Instead, Concerti Pegasus 2015 will be performed in one of the deconsecrated churches around town. For four nights, with the participation of Teatro Lirico Sperimentale, we’ll be treated to Mozart, Puccini, Verdi, Rachmaninov, Chopin, Liszt. What an unexpected treat!

Coquette

05 Monday Oct 2015

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Rebecca is going to have to stop singing Quando Men Vo from La Boheme.

First, it was with Italian men, like that cute little five-year old yesterday morning, winking back and forth without a single qualm.

Now it’s with Italian women, like that young apprentice at the fruita e verdure, each exchanging laughs over every nuance of translation.

The House on the Hill

05 Monday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education, Travel

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Via Mura Ciclopiche

Or else, the fool can’t stop shooting off his mouth with pixels?

Second Chance

04 Sunday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Art, Travel

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Venture down the steps below the Duomo to feel the magic of an unusual and enchanting garden surrounded by medieval houses.  There is a likely chance you will meet the artist.  It surely will be a highlight of your visit to Spoleto.

Unsure who wrote these words, sitting invitingly on the flip side of the Open Art Spoleto brochure.  But they capture the feeling we’ve had each time we visited.

With one exception: the chance of finding it open, much less meeting the artist,  never seemed all that likely.  (Many photographs we have, certainly, from afar.)

This year, all that changed.  After pulling on the locked gate, hearing the hidden dog bark, we turned to leave … before an English-speaking Italian appeared.

He fumbled through a set of keys; joked about the last one holding the charm; then ushered us into a truly enchanting garden surrounded by medieval houses.

The brochure forgot to mention all the art works, spread throughout the garden, in the open air.  Small sculptures, mostly figures and faces, hanging everywhere.

Some of these photos online, from a garden party, come close to the feel (if you subtract the important-looking people and flip the setting from night to day).

Predictably, neither the brochure nor the website carries any of the delight of the conversation.  Born in Spoleto, Giampiero Panella returned home ten years ago.

He lives and works in this fabulous old house, realizing the human form in terra-cotta figures, then converted to bronze before being placed in a garden setting.

<The Machine in the Garden is an old book of mine.  After my fall from grace with technology, I fear promises.  If some of the pixels turn out, you’ll see.>

Meanwhile, Back in Orvieto

03 Saturday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education, Travel

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Churches, churches everywhere.  Two of our favorites:

Chiesa di Sant’ Andrea
Inside Sant’ Andrea

For those in the historical know, the portico on the left is a 15th-century addition.  And for those in the mathematical know, that’s a dodecagonal bell tower.  (Twelve sided, my internet dictionary tells me.)  Further, there was much written about the underground spaces from Etruscan and medieval periods. Never found them.

On the outskirts of the town, close to where it drops straight down, an old church.

Chiesa di San Giovenale
Inside Giovenale

This one was built at the beginning of the 11th century (in a Romanesque style, as if I could tell the difference between this and the “Romanesque Gothic style” of Chiesa di Sant’ Andrea.  Suffice it to say, cramming for tests in “Humanities” is no guarantee of long-term memory, much less life-long learning.  Nothing beats being there, soaking it all in–to the point that you are overwhelmed with a sense of the past, the long duration, in decided contrast to the short history of the U.S.)

Images Missing in Action

03 Saturday Oct 2015

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Like Julia Randall’s sonata, we keep repeating ourselves with no qualm.  (In the case of our Anniversary celebration in Spoleto, that means doing the same things at the same places in the same order.  Perhaps that is why there are no pictures of the food, or the Opera House, or each other.  Actually, that’s not exactly true.  But we’re far from celebrities and certainly less than action heroes.  Guess all one can do is blame it on the paparazzi.)


Backtracking (Before We Left Town)

03 Saturday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Art, Travel

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Thanks to Wikipedia, I had the plot to La Boheme down cold.  None of us, however, were prepared for the heat in the Teatro Nuovo.  (Except for the self-proclaimed “crazy Italian” who pulls off his shirt–before, or as, the performance begins–to reveal a fairly heavy undershirt, which he restrained from shedding as well.  All good fun, shared in a mix of English and Italian that grows familiar.)

But with the Wi-Fi high jinks, I could never prepare for the arias themselves. So there was the music, the scenery, and the crowd.  Plus the voices, so amazing to be so young.  (The performances are part of a 69-year old tradition of training new talent.  Quite a feat for a town this small.  And one that sustains itself, I would think, by the many days where the program is performed for the schools.)


Keep Those Doggies Walking

02 Friday Oct 2015

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Travel

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Mostly what we did for two days: sight seeing and being in the scene.


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