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Carriage Returner

~ Slow Travel, Quick Scripts

Carriage Returner

Category Archives: Travel

The Streets of Spoleto (in another medium)

11 Tuesday Sep 2018

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In the foreground, a well-established Italian tradition, the killer porchetta
Headed toward the green valley, a Spoleto masterpiece, Calder’s stabile

At the Old Opera House, a New Opera

10 Monday Sep 2018

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The last time we went to a contemporary opera, we struggled a bit to keep the distance between atonal harmonics and noise. Non c’è un problema in this case.

Or else, when it was, the opera offered lots more to sustain us. Like the video, starting in the open air before closing in on a hill town, projected on a screen.

A house is seen. Lights, projected on the scrim, let us peek inside. It is evening. It is quiet. A mother and her daughter prepare for bed. Nature, off stage, sings.

This commissioned work is dedicated to the inhabitants of Valnerina, the nearby valley where two earthquakes hit on each side of our Spoleto visit in 2016.

Yet the idea comes from the sound of bells, an instrument “strongly linked to the territory and to the most intimate parts of us,” explains the musical composer.

Plus it’s connected (by the kindly provided synopsis) to an Emily Dickinson poem. Not to mention there’s dialogue also screened if you can decipher it.

Last but not least: the plot. After the first night, the Event. The veiled screen falls. The routine of the characters is repeated (indeed, reversed) and changed.

Lontano da Qui, when Google speaks, means “away from here.” For us, two years ago, that signified we were safe. It also affirms the effort to start over.

Permanence and Change

09 Sunday Sep 2018

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More and more, with older records of each visit stacked, taking stock of what’s in store for Spoleto becomes a significant piece of our business. At times we know well in advance; on other occasions we are taken completely by surprise.

Chiuso
The Accidental Tourist: Or in This Case, My Kind of Selfie

We knew before we left in the spring, e.g., that 9 Cento would soon be moving. Soon can be a relative term, of course–as Andrea was soon to learn in earnest. So yesterday was opening night, and “everybody who was anybody” was there.

That’s me, third on the right, at our landlords’ table of honor
That’s Andrea, the lord of the manor, receiving guests


That’s me, third on the right, at our landlords’ table of honor.
And that’s Andrea, the lord of the manor, receiving his guests.

Sunday Evening, Coming Down

06 Thursday Sep 2018

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Maybe we’re still jet-lagged. For we seem to have our days reversed, and to be going up to rock around the Rocca when the sun is just starting to come down:


That only makes us ever more grateful that the 6 Towers chain “keeps the lights on for us,” enhancing the view by the time we reach the north face of the Ponte.

The New Kid on the Block

05 Wednesday Sep 2018

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All I can say is, “panzanella, caprese, e bruschetta: motto buono!”

Keeping Up With the Changes, #1

05 Wednesday Sep 2018

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In the spring, at odds with the cycle of the seasons, we mourned the passing of an institution:


This fall, once again so contrary to sense, we are about to celebrate all the news that’s fit to print.

Somehow the new sight is MIA on my camera roll

Store-Bought Cake

03 Monday Sep 2018

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It’s just to die for:


Making Up a Long Story

02 Sunday Sep 2018

Posted by jturner@mi-connection.com in Education, Travel

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On our first pass, stopping to marvel at each detail of the collage, Rebecca happened to notice Fabiola standing beside her fellow artists, chatting away in Italian.

On our return, just as I surreptitiously snapped an iPhone keepsake, the artist arrived to talk thru our obviously abiding interest in her wonderful composition.

Typical art talk (for a collage), at first: la media, i vincoli della mostra (the constraints of the exhibit), l’orario dei treni (train schedule), e ponte ferroviario.

But unhearable by you, all our chat was being conducted in molto rapido Italian, as befits a celebration of Arte Moda e Gusto, a bike trek from Spoleto to Norcia.

So where the chat went from there is a bit hard to say, precisely because we were having no problem adding “Si, si” from time to time, as Fabiola raced on.

Still the best part, so far as we were concerned, is that without any chance of understanding each and every word we felt, all along, as if we were in the flow.

Now that, for an answer on a foreign language exam, is what U might judge to be totally unacceptable. Yet for us the morning passed in a deep shade of glory.

Welcoming Words

31 Friday Aug 2018

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On the way out of our apartment, just before stepping out on Corso Garibaldi, you pass Camericia Rocca del Perigini, a clothing store so formidable it is not well suited to me. (Bob McKillop is the only one I know who knows his Italian fitted shirts and suits.)

So even though we’ve never done more than a bit of window-shopping now and again, we are passingly acquainted in the literal sense with the shop owner. No less than we, she has a face-recognition scanner that, whenever our eyes meet, exchanges “buongiorno” or “buona sera” between the glass.

Only the first time on our way out this year, the usually diligent one happens to be standing outside next to the presiding green goddess. Words of welcome bubble up from within our welcoming neighbor and immediately sink into our hearts even as they penetrate our brains more slowly:

Torna qui (To come back);
Ultima primavera (last spring);
L’anno scorso (last year);
Amiamo Spoleto (We love Spoleto.)

Yet again our home away from home persuades us of an ever-widening connection–as good a reason as there is, should one be needed, to explain this odd predilection.

Camericia Rocca del Perigini
Our Green Goddess

Only in Italy?

29 Wednesday Aug 2018

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Civil servants handing out bottles of water to motorists diverted from the highway to Firenze by the aforesaid incident.

Naturale (still) or Frizzante (sparkling)?

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